Mastic is a triple no-brainer - your health, the ability of the unit to condition your home properly, and your utility bills You have a vaccum, so either you house implodes like a crushed sub on TV or it replaces the 100 cfm of missing air with untreated air from from doors, windows, light fixtures, switches, receptacles, etc. Your return sucks in 1000 CFM, but only puts 900 CFM back into the house. Lets say you have 10% leakage in supply side. This is the way I explain ductleagage and mastic to homeowners. There are many places where you just can't see where you are applying the mastic, and in these cases I grab a handful and apply it by feel. Just drill a screw to catch one of the bands in the flex and the duct will break before it comes off the boot.įinally, mastic, mastic, mastic. SCREWS are needed to connect flex duxt to boots and start collars. Secondly, as previously mentiones, SELF TAPPING SHEET METAL Ductwork must be strapped high enough that someone can crawl under it (remember, this someone is going to be big) If all ductwork is not properly supported, its just going to seperate again, I don't care how much mastic is used. ( sorry boys, 1 strap every 10 ft doesnt cut it). Often I find that ductwork seperates when an unsupported weight pulls it down (broken or insufficient strapping, the infamous termite dude climbing over it, big bellies under a small crawl, etc).įirst things first, make sure that the trunk is properly supported and then that each supply is properly supported I am not certain if mastic just seals, or is also used to hold together manually fastened ductwork joints. If I did, I would think I would need to use drywall tape or mesh to hold the ductwork together if I am not screwing them together. I got the major energy wasters out of the way. I am assuming there is diminished returns for masticking the rest of the ductwork. Almost all the ductwork, except for the ones directly coming from the coffin-shaped/sized ducts, are manually fastened together, held together by duct tape. I will use blocks of wood to support the duct under the boot over the concrete. Unfortunately, it would be impossible to screw any ductwork together under the boot because of lack of workable space. I'll might go back tomorrow and get the drywall mesh or tape and redo those areas. I just used a lot of mastic to cover any larger gaps. Although I was directed to drywall supplies. I couldn't find any fiberglass mesh at Home Depot. ![]() I used a 2 inch paintbrush to apply mastic, but half the time I used my glove. I wasn't sure it would hold, so I unravelled the tab tape, rolled into some sort of ball, and supported the duct under the boot over the coffin. Took a lot of manipulating myself into a pretzel, wobbling on an old cabinet(no step ladder)to fasten one piece of duct into a piece of duct coming from the coffin, then fasten it to the boot. Almost impossible to get to because a gas pipe was also parallel to the coffin-sized duct. Above a coffin-sized ductwork was the area where the duct was disconnected from the boot. I used the tab tape to support the duct elbow on a nightmarish ductwork refastening. They also had something called tab tape, which is a a roll of metal support straps. Lowes didn't have any mastic, but Home Depot did. Took two hours to mastic 5 ducts to their boots, including collateral elbows and other joints. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact support. We suggest not registering using an AT&T, BellSouth, AOL or Yahoo email address.
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